We’re up early (actually, we’ve been up early every day – I
am exhausted) and have breakfast on Cape Tribulation beach. Brad was right to
be worried about the coffee, instead of an extra hot skinny latte our ‘camping
coffee’ comes in a bag like tea!
After breakfast, we drive a few hours north and call into Shiptons
Flat to see traditional owners Peter and Condalina (Big Peter and Marilyn were
away). We’re keen to have a swim on their country, so they gave us an impromptu
smoking ceremony to make sure the spirits of their ancestors know that it’s
fine for us to be there. I have never seen or been part of a smoking ceremony
before, but it’s an awesome thing and I felt pretty lucky.
We have a quick swim nearby at Two Bridges, cross some rivers, spot a crocodile, deal with car issues and pass Black Mountain, before heading
onto Cooktown for fish and chips.
After a couple of hours more on the road, we arrive at our
destination: Normanby Station. This is the country of Ronnie Harrigan, elder and
traditional owner from Kuku Yalanji people.
Ronnie is also the person who gave Jawun its name:
"When (the older people) say 'Who is this waybela
(creole for whitefella) coming here', I say 'this is Jawun – friend
and family. I talk to them, they come here and we all work together as a
partner.'"
Ronnie’s family welcome us like jawun (friend and family)
and soon we’ve rolled out our swags and lit the campfire.
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