Day Five

We’re up early (actually, we’ve been up early every day – I am exhausted) and have breakfast on Cape Tribulation beach. Brad was right to be worried about the coffee, instead of an extra hot skinny latte our ‘camping coffee’ comes in a bag like tea!

After breakfast, we drive a few hours north and call into Shiptons Flat to see traditional owners Peter and Condalina (Big Peter and Marilyn were away). We’re keen to have a swim on their country, so they gave us an impromptu smoking ceremony to make sure the spirits of their ancestors know that it’s fine for us to be there. I have never seen or been part of a smoking ceremony before, but it’s an awesome thing and I felt pretty lucky.

We have a quick swim nearby at Two Bridges, cross some rivers, spot a crocodile, deal with car issues and pass Black Mountain, before heading onto Cooktown for fish and chips.

After a couple of hours more on the road, we arrive at our destination: Normanby Station. This is the country of Ronnie Harrigan, elder and traditional owner from Kuku Yalanji people.

Ronnie is also the person who gave Jawun its name:

"When (the older people) say 'Who is this waybela (creole for whitefella) coming here', I say 'this is Jawun – friend and family. I talk to them, they come here and we all work together as a partner.'"

Ronnie’s family welcome us like jawun (friend and family) and soon we’ve rolled out our swags and lit the campfire.